THE WOOL COAT  

     

When we began designing this coat, our intention was straightforward: to create a substantial piece of outerwear that offers genuine protection against the winter cold. We wanted a coat that feels enveloping, with a strong silhouette and a sense of weight that becomes part of its character. The high-standing collar shields the neck and frames the face, while the full-length construction creates a protective layer against the elements.

MILITARY HERITAGE

The design draws on mid-20th-century military outerwear, where durability, practicality and freedom of movement shaped the garments. Rather than reproducing historical details literally, we reworked these principles into a contemporary coat.

The full button closure replaces a conventional zip with a row of individual buttons. It gives the front structure while allowing each fastening to be repaired or replaced independently. At the back we added two shoulder vents, originally associated with military coats designed for active use, these pleats allow the fabric to move more freely across the upper body and create a subtle sense of volume when worn.

FROM PROTOTYPE TO FINAL SAMPLE

The development began with a simple cotton toile. Using CLO 3D, we developed the pattern and created the first physical mock-up to evaluate the overall proportions. The result was close to what we had envisioned. Only a few adjustments were necessary, most notably around the sleeves.

For the second sample, we moved to a medium-weight wool fabric. This allowed us to evaluate the coat's behaviour in a material closer to the intended final version. We continued to work on the fall of the collar and experimented with the positioning of the waist belt, refining the balance between the volume of the coat and the beltloop-position on the waist.

The final sample required considerably more time. We selected the wool fabric we felt was right for the design and completed the construction with a lining, pockets and internal reinforcements. Given the cost of the materials and the complexity of the garment, every decision required care. We wanted the finished coat to feel as considered on the inside as it does from the outside.

One of the most rewarding details was the pair of back vents. They worked exactly as intended, adding movement while maintaining the clean, structured appearance of the coat. - We even corrected the construction of them again to perfection. Once we fitted the final sample on a model, the heavier wool revealed a slightly different silhouette than in the earlier prototypes. Rather than resisting this change, we embraced it. The additional weight gave the coat a presence that the lighter samples could not achieve.

THE WORK BEHIND THE GARMENT

This was, without question, one of the most demanding pieces we have made in our atelier. Constructing the buttonholes, attaching each button and finishing the internal details required considerable time and precision. These are small elements individually, but together they create the character and quality of the finished garment.

We took our time with this piece. The result is a coat shaped through repeated sampling, careful material selection and a commitment to getting the details right. We are proud to finally make it available.

Not simply a layer against the cold, but a garment built around the relationship between function, material and form.